One of the most exciting lines I saw during this recent men’s show season in Paris was off the runways, in a small gallery on the rue de Turenne in the Marais. Alexandre Plokhov coach factory store, a co-founder of the much-missed Cloak label and the recently departed designer of Versace’s men’s-wear line, introduced his new namesake collection of architectural suiting and design-minded sportswear pieces. Before walking through the racks of clothing coach factory store, I was shown a short film by Douglas Keeve, whom Plokhov met during the filming of “Seamless,” a documentary featuring young designers vying for the first CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. (Plokhov lost first prize to Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough of Proenza Schouler.)
Photographs by Alex Freund, courtesy of Alexandre Plokhov
There is definitely a market for a younger, edgier suit wearer in the city who is looking for design, not nostalgia, when shopping. And Alexandre Plokhov is the perfect new resource for this sharp urbanite.
The movie’s frenetic pace and hyper-graphic black and white visuals set a tone for a collection that was clearly looking to design rather than lifestyle for its inspiration. Plokhov showed me sharp, short suits with zippered elbows that opened to reveal the shirt underneath and pants with asymmetrical waistbands that draped and clasped to one side. A gray wool coat with a funnel neckline had an angled zipper that alluded to those from motorcycle jackets. Slim overcoats with one asymmetrical shoulder and a strap on the opposite side revealed a short leather biker jacket peeking out from underneath. Washed jersey crewnecks with shoulder zips and hooded sweatshirts and tech parkas with longer “tails” like those of mourning coats in a palette of subtle grays, charcoals and greens, though seemingly neutral coach factory store, were rich and innovative pieces.
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